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Best Read Articles of 2015 UK

By Don-Alvin Adegeest

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Fashion

2015 was a year where the fashion world saw its foundations shaken to its core. FashionUnited was at the front line to publish the news from both the UK and from our global editors, covering the most relevant topics within the industry. Here is a shortlist of the best read articles of 2015 that captured both our readers attention and imagination, as well our commitment to cover the latest news.

1. 'The death of fashion lead to appetite for something new': The Emancipation of Everything

There was plenty of reaction and criticism when Dutch trend forecaster Lidewij Edelkoort published her Anti_Fashion manifesto in February 2015. When she presented her new vision at the end of 2015: "The Emancipation of Everything,” Edelkoort proclaims a second coming of sorts, not only within the fashion industry, but also within society itself as drastic changes begin to take place across the globe. Citing the events of Paris and the war in the Middle East as influencers in both society and fashion in general, she aptly captured the zeitgeist when referring to how creative directors and designers are being squeezed out like lemons in the fashion system." Highlighting Raf Simons recent departure from Dior and Alber Elbaz exit from Lanvin as two examples of the broken fashion system.

2. Li Edelkoort: 'Fashion is dead. Long live clothing'

It is interesting that Li Edelkoort's manifestos were two of this year's best read articles. Outlining why she believes the fashion industry "is going to implode", Edelkoort's 10-point printed manifesto gave ten reasons why the fashion system is obsolete, which spurred endless debate. Whilst there were plenty who queried her point of view, she was fierce to describe the fashion industry as "a ridiculous and pathetic parody of what it has been." She argues that the industry has reached a vanishing point of fashion, and that the economy of clothes will take over from the turnover of fashion.

3. Peta reveals horrific conditions behind the production of Hermès's Birkin bag

Luxury house Hermès came under fire earlier this year, when it was revealed their iconic Birkin bag, which come in exotic crocodile and alligator versions, uses animal skins from farms not practising ethical treatments. Peta published an undercover reportage which highlighted several cases of direct animal abuse and cruelty. Hermès in its 2014 Annual Report that they are "an attentive, concerned and committed company which conducts its business in a way that respects its ecological, social, economic and cultural environment."

4. Is H&M really as 'green' as they seem to be?

Fast fashion and sustainability are not often muttered under the same breath, and responses to H&M's self publicised green credentials, were not met without criticism. While H&M's Conscious Denim Collection aims to use less water than traditional dye processes, or that its 'Close the Loop' initiative which sees the retailer taking on a circular lifeline approach to consumption. However vague the testimony may come across, there is a commitment to recycling and to bring more transparency to its practices. Whilst it didn't meet its goals for using 100 percent sustainable cotton for all of its collections, H&M has started to put its best foot forward.

5. Zara fails to protect labourers from modern-day slavery practices

Another fast fashion retailer made the most read list of 2015, namely Zara, when the fashion giant reportedly failed to protect its most vulnerable employees - the garment workers - from modern day slavery practises. Fast fashion companies generally make their garments in emerging markets where production is cheap, and where human rights often come secondary to profit. Zara, it was suggested, lacked sufficient transparency within its supply chain which lead to a gross misconduct of labour rights. Sixty-seven suppliers were checked and found to be engaging in countless labour rights violations.

6. How to Launch Your Own Fashion Label - Part I

In our unique series How to Launch Your Own Fashion Label, our editor covers the basics of how to turn an idea for brand or label into a viable business. Offering insights from sourcing, producing, distribution and marketing, the series offers a guide to cover all the bases with a focus on realistic expectations and challenges that face up and coming designers today.

7. Patagonia's & Stella McCartney's Wool Supplier caught Skinning Lambs Alive

It came as somewhat of a surprise when Stella McCartney, a long time vegan and champion of sustainability, was reported to be using merino wool from a supplier who abused its animals. A video which reveals highly disturbing evidence of animals cruelty occurred on farms from the Ovis 21 network in Argentina, which also supplies goods to outfitter Patagonia. McCartney responded quickly, stating: "We are deeply saddened and shocked by the cruelty seen on the footage, as animal welfare is at the heart of everything we do. This is a huge setback to help saving the grasslands in Patagonia."

8. EU countries agree textile chemical ban

Back in July, we published EU member states have unanimously voted to ban the textile chemical Nonylphenol Ethoxylate (NPE) found in clothing as its poses an “unacceptable risk” to the environment. The use of NPE in textile manufacturing in Europe was banned over 10 years ago, but the substance was still being released into the aquatic environment through imported textiles being washed. In 2011, Greenpeace highlighted the widespread use of NPE after it reported that it found the toxic chemical in two-thirds of the clothes it tested, including items sold by big name brands such as Adidas, H&M, Nike and Uniqlo.

9. How the Selfie Effect is Disrupting the Industry

Are selfies a way of marketing brands and is social media now a platform for e-commerce from a consumer's viewpoint? These are some of the topics in this report, which charts the impact of the selfie on how consumers shop. As people are encouraged to share every aspect of their lives online, including their fashion choices, they are at the same time outsourcing opinions on fashion to a wider audience than previously possible. Social media, but particularly selfies, have generated a near instant feedback loop for customers in the buying process, our editor noted, none the least that this has a significant impact on retailers.

10. Opsh looking to revolutionise the way we shop online

Here we charted the rise of three sisters from Ireland who are aiming to revolutionise how women shop online with the launch of fashion platform, Opsh. The platform aims to cut out the “noise” and make it easier to “make that purchase happen, such as removing the need to remember passwords for different website and having to visit several online stores to buy an outfit for work or a special occasion. The site allows shoppers to customise their own high street online with one account and one point of purchase.


Best Read Articles of 2015 UK