The year of reinvention: How 2025 reshaped fashion’s creative landscape

Fashion thrives on novelty, yet few years in recent memory have been as transformative as 2025. High-profile departures, strategic reshuffles, and behind-the-scenes leadership changes reshaped almost every major house, setting the stage for Spring/Summer 2026.

The season has been hailed as historic, not for any single collection or trend, but for the unprecedented number of new creative directors stepping into the spotlight and revealing their visions. Even with months of advance notice, surprises and unexpected shifts kept the industry on its toes, creating a sense of anticipation and uncertainty alike. Taken together, these changes marked a year of profound creative recalibration, where the stage was set not only for SS26 but for a broader reshaping of fashion’s landscape.

A year of change

The year, however, was not only marked by headline-making debuts, but also by changes that, in the flurry of announcements, almost fell by the wayside – and understandably so. After all, it was a year that saw Demna Gvasalia unveil his first collection for Gucci, charting a bold new direction, while Simone Bellotti clarified his vision for Jil Sander. Dario Vitale offered an initial glimpse of his short-lived tenure at Versace, and Louise Trotter stood out as the only woman to deliver a major debut this season with Bottega Veneta.

In addition, Miguel Castro Freitas presented his first collection for Mugler, while Glenn Martens left his distinctive mark on Margiela. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, the founders of Proenza Schouler, officially debuted at Loewe, succeeding Jonathan Anderson, who in turn delivered his first womenswear and menswear collections for Dior. Pierpaolo Piccioli returned to the runway with Balenciaga, and Duran Lantink assumed full creative control at Jean Paul Gaultier, both marking their first collections for the houses. The season’s crescendo came with Matthieu Blazy’s highly anticipated debut for Chanel, nearly six years after Karl Lagerfeld’s passing.

Taken together, these debuts were more than collections; they represented a rare moment of synchronised reinvention, with multiple houses embracing new voices and reshaping the trajectory of contemporary fashion in one remarkable season.

The ‘quiet’ comings-and-goings

Beyond the headline-grabbing debuts, 2026 was also shaped by a number of quieter leadership changes that, while less publicised, had a significant impact on the fashion landscape. The early months set the tone when Daniëlle Cathari stepped down as creative director at Kith Women, marking an early shake-up in the contemporary sector. Daniel Fletcher moved into a new role as creative director at Mithridate, and both Timberland and C.P. Company appointed new design leadership.

February continued the wave of change when Casey Cadwallader left Mugler and Sabato De Sarno exited Gucci, paving the way for two debuts later in the season. Nicolas Rohaut took the helm at IRO, and A$AP Rocky became the first creative director at Ray-Ban. The pace of appointments intensified with Carven naming Mark Thomas as design director and the Botter duo assuming creative control at G-Star Raw. By April, Dirk Schonberger returned to MCM, reflecting a broader trend of legacy leaders returning to stabilise brands.

Midyear saw further recalibrations. Francesco Risso exited Marni, later replaced by Meryll Rogge, while Jaden Smith was appointed creative director at Louboutin Men and Götz Offergeld took the helm at WRSTBHVR. Meanwhile, the departure of Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia from Oscar de la Renta, along with Silvia Venturini Fendi stepping down, left further high-profile vacancies.

As the year drew to a close, Maria Grazia Chiuri was confirmed at Fendi, closing a chapter that had generated much speculation, while Véronique Nichanian retired from Hermès menswear after 37 years, a position swiftly filled by Grace Wales Bonner. Kim Jones, who had departed Dior Men earlier in the year, embarked on a new chapter with Bosideng, Olivier Rousteing left Balmain after 14 years, with Antonin Tron announced as his successor, and Ludovico Bruno was appointed global creative director at Moose Knuckles.

One last shake-up in 2025?

Just as the year was drawing to a close, fashion delivered one final twist. Versace confirmed the rather unexpected departure of Dario Vitale after only one season. Vitale had been the first person outside of the Versace family to take the helm, following the brand’s takeover by the Prada Group.

With the creative director position once again vacant, speculation is mounting over a potential successor who could steer the house in a bold new direction. Pieter Mulier, who has led Alaïa since 2021, is widely expected to join Versace, bringing with him a reputation for craftsmanship, dramatic volumes, and a keen eye for accessories. His long-standing collaborations with Raf Simons – at Dior, Calvin Klein, and Jil Sander – position him as a natural fit to align Versace more closely with the aesthetic of its founding family, a goal championed by newly appointed executive chairman Lorenzo Bertelli.

While negotiations are said to still be ongoing and no contract has yet been signed, Mulier’s potential arrival promises to be another pivotal chapter in a year already defined by transformation, proving that fashion’s narrative is never truly finished, even as the calendar turns.